• Choosing a grip size
• Choosing a racket headsize
• Widebodies
• Choosing a racket length
• Extra Long Rackets
• Head balance

• Weight
• Care for your tennis racket
• 15 Basic Facts about Racquets
• Rackets manufacturers
• ITF Rules of Tennis, Rule 4 'The Racket'

• Choosing a grip size

The best ways  to determine grip size.

The easiest way is to grab a tennis racket handle and place your index finger from your opposite hand in the space between your fingers and your palm. If your index finger fits comfortably, the grip is just right. If your finger will not fit, the grip is too small.

The proper size can be determined by measuring the distance between the tip of the ring finger and the first palm crease (life line).
For example:
The distance between your first palm line and the tip of your ring finger is 11.5 cm .
1 inch = 2.54 cm
11.5 cm = 4.53 inch = 4 and 1/2 inch.
Your grip size - 4 1/2 (US system) or 4 (European system).

A general rule of thumb is to choose the largest grip you feel comfortable with, but again there are exceptions to every rule.

Grip size system

• Choosing a racket headsize

Generally, the oversize (110-115 sq. in.) or super oversize (116-135 sq. in.) rackets are best suited for baseline players or doubles players because they hit many strokes and tend to utilize the extra area to help with topspin production.   These rackets can lead to sloppy stroke production and can be too powerful for some players.  This is usually not a big problem for most players. An oversized racket means you have more area to hit the ball (larger sweet spot), and the racket is more forgiving on off-center shots.

The midsize (less than 89 sq. in.) or midplus (90-105 sq. in.) rackets are often preferred by all court or serve and volley players.

A midsize racket is usually a little better for volleyers who play against hard hitters because it provides a bit of control.  On the other hand, the oversized racket still provides more area to hit with, and some serve and volleyers will use oversized rackets.

The midplus is a compromise - more powerful than the midsize but not as powerful as the oversized.  These rackets are becoming more popular than midsize rackets.

Some companies have introduced super-oversized models, which are a bit larger than oversize (typically about 116-120 sq. in.).  There are even a few models around 130 sq. inches, which are probably much too big for reasonable play and should be avoided.

If you are confused about headsize, the best thing to do is to try two of the same kind of racket in different headsizes and see which one you are most comfortable with.

• Widebodies

The "widebody revolution" started in the late 80's with models such as the Wilson Profile.  Different companies have produced various rackets that vary in their widebody construction (e.g., equally wide - Classic Beam; wide on top - Prince; wide on bottom - Head).

Generally,  Wider - More powerful, stiffer, more expensive. Widebodies are usually 18mm (very narrow) up to 30mm wide.  The general rule of thumb is that the quicker and longer a stroke motion you have, the narrower a racket you should use (not a hard-and-fast rule, though).

It should be noted that you are not going to find non-widebodies around.  Almost every racket is wide to some extent.  One problem with widebodies occurs when people try to hit the ball edge on as in extreme sliced shots or topspin shots.  You tend to hit the side of the racquet a lot more.  You can compensate through a bit of practice.

• Choosing a racket length

The main feature you should consider when buying a racket for your junior player is the length of the racket. Do not choose a racket that is too long that he or she cannot handle. It is better to fit a racket to a child based on his or her height, rather than according to the age of the child. The ability of the child is another factor to consider when choosing a racket. If your child has good hand-eye coordination, then he or she may have no trouble adapting to a longer frame. However, if your child has not yet developed this coordination, then a shorter racket will be more appropriate. Also, make certain that your child is learning the game through a USPTA professional who can teach the proper strokes and techniques.

• Extra Long Rackets

Manufacturers of rackets have been looking for many different ways to add power to rackets.   The aluminum racket, the oversized racket, the graphite racket, widebodies, and now extra long rackets.  A standard racket measures 27 inches, and the rules permit a racket to be as long as 32 inches.  (Note: The International Tennis Federation has proposed a reduction in maximum allowable racket length from 32 inches to 29 inches). The new longer rackets are typically about 28 inches long.

Given that most tennis racket manufacturers now produce a longer racket, it's safe to say that this idea does work.  It seems to help add a little power to the serve.   The only tricky part is making sure that you can still hit the same kind of stroke with the longer rackets that you can with a normal racket.  It seems manufacturers have been paying attention to this.

• Head balance

Take a racquet and find the length half way.  A racquet is typically 27 inches long so this is 13 1/2 inches.  If the racquet balances halfway, then it is even balance.  If it tilts to the racquet head, it is head heavy. If it tilts toward the handle, it is head light.    The balance of a racquet can make two racquets of equal weight feel different.  The head heavy racquet will feel heavier than the lighter one when you swing (think of the difference in holding a hammer at either end).

A head light racquet is better for serve and volleyers who need to move the racquet quickly.  A head heavy racquet is a little better for baseliners who want to place more mass behind the racquet.  Most racquets are only marginally head heavy or head light.

Some terminology.  Find the half way point (13 1/2 inches).   If the balance point of your racquet is 3/8 inch closer to the racquet head than the halfway point, then it is 3 points head heavy (1 point = 1/8 inch). If the racquet balances 3/8 inch closer to the handle, then is is 3 point head light.

• Weight

As a rule, the trend in weight is toward lighter and lighter racquets, particularly with the introduction of graphite.  Racquets right now weigh about 11 and 1/2 ounces and decreasing with time.  Some racquets are even less than 10 ounces.  The lighter a racquet, the easier it is to swing. However, light racquets place less weight behind the shot, and hence you have to swing faster to get a more powerful shot.   This has been the main way (along with balance) to tame the power of widebodies.

• Care for your tennis racket

Avoid impacts with hard objects or court surfaces which may cause cracks or breakage in the frame.
Racket bumper guards or head tape can protect the racket from on-court scrapes. If the bumper shows excessive wear or exposes the frame, replace both the bumper guard and the grommet strips.
Off court, a cover or racket bag will help protect the racket.
Store racket in a cool, dry place, away from direct sunlight. Excessive heat, cold, or moisture can damage your racket and strings, and sunlight may fade the racket cover.

Do not store the racket inside your car or in your trunk. Synthetic strings begin to lose tension at about 110 degrees F (43 degrees C). On a sunny, 90 degree F (32 degrees C) day, the temperature inside your car can soar to as much as 140 degrees F (60 degrees C) which is hot enough to even soften the resins in a frame and distort the racket. If you are planning a game after work, take your racket into the office; do not leave it in the car!

Synthetic cushion grips, while offering excellent absorption and feel, will wear out.

A rattle in your racket may be caused by some loose graphite, this is not normally a cause for concern. Check the butt cap for a trap door. Remove the trap door, using a small-pointed hard object, and tap lightly on a hard surface to release the loose graphite.

If you feel your racket has a manufacturing defect, return it to the store where it was purchased.

• 15 Basic Facts about Racquets

Here are 15 basic facts about racquets. This information provided by the United States Racquet Stringers Association.

 

These facts are presented as generalities. While a stiffer frame generates more power, a stiff frame badly strung may generate less power than a more flexible frame properly strung for power players. While a heavier frame generates more power, it can also decrease maneuverability.

1. A heavier frame generates more power.

2. A heavier frame vibrates less.

3. A heavier frame has a larger sweetspot.

4. A stiffer frame generates more power.

5. A stiffer frame has a larger sweetspot.

6. A stiffer frame transmits more of the shock load to the arm than a more flexible frame.

7. A stiffer frame provides a more uniform ball response across the entire string plane.

8. A larger frame generates more power.

9. A larger frame is more resistant to twisting.

10. A larger frame has a larger sweetspot.

11. Larger frames break strings sooner due to the string lengths.

12. Longer frames have higher swing weight than the same frames that are shorter hence the longer frames are less         maneuverable.

13. Longer frames generate more power than the same frame that is shorter.

14. It is recommended by the USRSA that widebody frames use multifilament strings (i.e. "soft" strings) or gut to         compensate for some of the stiff attributes hence better playability.

15. It is recommended by the USRSA to string widebody frames at lower tension for better playability and to help         keep strings from breaking too soon.