- USRSA
String Rankings 1998
Every August, 1,000 USRSA members - professional stringers are asked which string
they like in terms of playability, durability, and overall performance. Here are the
results of the 1998 survey:
Playability |
Durability |
Overall |
1. Babolat VS
Power 17 (NG)
2. Babolat VS Power 16 (NG)
3. Gamma TNT 18 (MO)
4. Babolat VS Control 15L (NG)
5. Gamma TNT Pro Plus 17L (MO)
6. Technifibre NRG2 SPL-17 (MT)
7. Gamma Pro 17L (MO)
8. Wilson Sensation NXT 17 (MT)
9. Gamma TNT 17 (MO)
10.Wilson Sensation NXT 16 (MT) |
1. Prince
ProBlend w/Duraflex 16 (H)
2. Gamma Infiniti 15L (H)
3. Gamma TNT Pro Fusion 16 (H)
4. Wilson HammerLast 16 (H)
5. Gamma Marathon 15L (MO)
6. Forten Thin Blend 18/17 (H)
7. Wilson HammerLast 19 (H)
8. Prince Endurance w/Duraflex 15L (MO)
9. Gamma TNT 15L (MO)
10. Gamma TNT Synthetic Gut 15L (MO) |
1. Babolat VS
Power 16 (NG)
2. Babolat VS Power 17 (NG)
3. Babolat VS Control 15L (NG)
4. Gamma TNT Pro Plus 17L (MO)
5. Forten Thin Blend 18/17 (H)
6. Gamma TNT 18 (MO)
7. Wilson Sensation NXT 17 (MT)
8. Gamma TNT 17 (MO)
9. Technifibre NRG2 SPL-17 (MT)
10. Wilson Sensation NXT 16 (MT) |
NG=
Natural Gut MO= Monofilament
MT=Multifilament H=Hybrid |

- Nylon,
- Gut, and
- Synthetic Gut.
Nylon is cheap and durable, but it is not overly resilient and tends to lose tension
before it snaps.
Gut is the choice of many pros, but it is rather expensive and generally not recommended
unless you can afford to buy in bulk and have your own stringing machine. Gut strings
are resilient, hold tension better, and players like the feel better. However,
humidity affects the strings and cause them to degrade. Gut doesn't last as
long as nylon.
The compromise is synthetic strings. Basically, gut is made by long thin
strands of cow or sheep gut, and it is twisted together in much the same way twine or
string is made. Synthetic gut does the same thing with nylon strings to achieve the
same effect. They cost more than nylon but less than real gut.
They play and hold tension better than nylon.
There are three basic types of synthetic strings:
monofilaments, multifilaments, and aramids.
- Monofilaments are simple, safe, and
consistent. Composed of a single, solid core string encased in a thin outer cover,
monofilaments are good all-around performers. They hold tension well and offer a pleasing
mix of durability and playability. Sixty-one percent of the strings that made the 1998
U.S. Racquet Stringer Association (USRSA) rankings were monofilaments.
- Multifilaments are manufactured from
hundreds, often thousands, of individual fibers that are woven together to create a
uniform piece of string, which is encased in a protective, feel-enhancing coating. In some
instances, a manufacturer will put on a second layer of coating, giving the string an
exceptionally soft feel.
What are the advantages of multifilaments? For one thing, they're very resilient and bend
a lot on impact. This generates a trampoline effect when the ball is hit, giving you more
power.
The downside to multifilaments is that they're generally not as durable as monofilaments,
and tend to lose their tension more quickly.
- Aramids are made of strong materials
like Kevlar and Technora, and are the most durable strings on the market. Because of their
inherent stiffness, aramids tend not to be resilient and don't deliver much feel or power,
though they do hold their tension exceptionally well.
Most aramids are strung in the mains (the strings that go up and down, and which are more
likely to break), with a monofilament string in the crosses for extra feel. This
combination creates what's known as a 'hybrid.' For chronic string-breakers, hybrids are a
good value.
So-called "topspin" strings are mostly gimmicky and should
probably be avoided. These are rough surfaced strings designed to grab the ball
better. The feel or durability of the strings are not necessarily improved.
Cost of strings range from about $10-$15 (US) for nylon to $12-$30
for synthetic gut to $30-$50 for gut strings. Strings can be purchased in large
reels for stringing at home for less.
String Gauges (String Thicknesses)
Strings come in various thicknesses, called "gauges." You
have 15, 15L, 16, 16L, and 17. Larger numbers mean thinner strings.
"L" means light and can be thought of as half as size (so 15L can be considered
15 1/2). Thick strings have less resilience and feel than thin strings but last longer.

Note: 1 pound (lb.) = 0.448 kg * 9.8 m/s^2 = 4.39 Newtons
String tension is usually measured in pounds (in the US).
Recommended string tensions have varied with the times but these days usually
run in the range of the mid 60's (pounds) for oversize and high 50's to low 60's for
mid-overs.
How do you choose a tension? If you're unsure, choose a
tension that is halfway between the manufacturer's ranges. You can then adjust up or
down until you find the tension most suitable for you. Exceeding the limits of
manufacturer's recommended string tensions might void the racquet warranty (check with the
racquet company if you have questions), but most racquets can withstand a great range of
tensions before damage sets in. Higher tensions will probably cause a little more
damage than lower tensions.
Basically, higher tensions decrease the size of the sweetspot and
reduce the power (thus increasing control a bit). The higher the tension, the more
boardlike the feel. Some people like this. Desired tension is pretty much a
matter of personal taste, and as you improve the level of your game, you are apt to notice
small fluctuations in string tensions.
Also note that the same string tension will have a different
"feel" for different racquets.
Restringing throughout the year should occur as frequently as you
play tennis each week, or at least once a year; for example, if you play tennis three
times a week, you should restring your racket three times a year. Remember that high
string tension provides less power and more control; and low string tension provides more
power and less control. To custom fit your racket with the ideal replacement string and
tension, refer to the guide on the throat of the racket.


Proper stringing is very important to your racket's playability.
Stringing should only be done by an experienced stringer, preferably a Certified Racket
Technician (CRT).

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This information provided by the United
States Racquet Stringers Association. |
1. Lower string tensions generate more power (providing string
movement does not occur).
2. Higher string tensions generate more ball control (for
experienced players).
3. A longer string length (or string plane area) produces more
power.
4. Decreased string density (fewer strings) generates more power.
5. Thinner string generates more power (Wilson's research for their
Sweetspot string disputes this theory).
6. More elastic strings generate more power (generally, what will
produce more power will also absorb more shock load at impact).
7. Softer strings, or strings with a softer coating, tend to vibrate
less.
8. Thinner strings tend to produce more spin by biting the
ball more.
9. Decreased string density (fewer strings) generates more spin.
10. Multifilament strings are more elastic than solid core strings.
11. Longer strings on a string bed move more hence break easier (see
larger frames from above).
12. Solid core strings are more durable than multifilament strings
with kevlar string technology being
the
most durable.
13. Kevlar strings are the stiffest and least flexible.
14. Multifilament strings play better than solid core strings.
15. Multifilament strings lose tension more quickly than strings
with a center core.
16. Textured strings tend to produce more spin.
17. Gut strings hold tension the best.
18. Gut strings are the most fragile strings comparing to other
similar gauged strings.

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